The trigger isn't going "bad". What happens is the foam around the triggering element on the end of the module is getting worn in a bit. After that happens the trigger actually gets much more sensitive. I didn't have to use anything in bass drum at first either, but then the only way I could get it to work was to jack up the crosstalk and noise values to the point that the left beater (which is further away then my right) wouldn't make the thing trigger. I set up the way a couple death metal drummers I know do and viola, fixed my problem. Sorry to say, but this is really the only way to get these SOB's to work right








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www.myspace.com/dahlgrenprophecy

I use Ddrum triggers, a DM5, and Remo PS3s w/ no muffle. When I first started using triggers they were a bit too sensitive, but I came up with a cheap solution that doesn't require packing your bass drums full of pillows or foam. However, it does require a small screw hole inside your bass drum (I wasn't too emotional about drilling into my 15 year-old Export, but if you have a custom kit you may feel differently).

Start with a piece of 1”x 1/8” Flat Aluminum Stock, cut a length of about 3 inches.
Bend it into a 1”x 2” L. In the longer side, drill and elongate a couple of holes (like slots)
On the shot side of the L, get some self adhesive foam weather-stripping and stick it on the “bottom” side.
Now take the front head off you bass drum. Place the foam end against where your trigger is (on the inside) and mark the slots on your drum shell. Pre-Drill Pilot Holes in the center of the “slots”, that way you have some adjustment. (A good tip for setting the depth so you don’t drill through your bass drum--get a Bic pen, put it over the drill bit and cut it down so only enough of the drill protrudes for the depth you need). This is kind of important, if you just cram a screw into your drum it may split the shell.
Loosen your trigger from the head, then lightly press your new muffle against the head and screw it down. Use proper fasteners (not sheet metal or drywall screws), and at least 2 (to avoid the muffle spinning on only one screw)
Now re-attach your trigger. Leave you drum head off until you have it adjusted, if you want to tighten your muffle take the trigger off first, then just loosen the screws, push it tighter against the head, then re-tighten the screws.
Now you have an adjustable trigger muffle that doesn't kill the accoustic sound of your bass drum

if you have an axis pedal you can get theyre specail trigger. it'll never false trigge or double trigger








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Hey Empyrean,


Thats a really cool idea! I am thinking of trying that with slight modifications to alleviate the drilling by using a wider piece of metal and slotting it off one of the lugs. It would be nice to able to hear my acoustic kick a little better.

Axis does make the e-kit trigger system. It's a nice system, but you have to run two of them on a single kick drum which is more wires and shit to worry about if your a single kick player. Having the trigger on the kick is cheaper for a single bass drum double basser!!








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www.myspace.com/dahlgrenprophecy

dahlgrendrummer wrote:

Hey Empyrean,


Thats a really cool idea! I am thinking of trying that with slight modifications to alleviate the drilling by using a wider piece of metal and slotting it off one of the lugs. It would be nice to able to hear my acoustic kick a little better.

Axis does make the e-kit trigger system. It's a nice system, but you have to run two of them on a single kick drum which is more wires and shit to worry about if your a single kick player. Having the trigger on the kick is cheaper for a single bass drum double basser!!

I was going to bolt the muffle under the lugs at first, but I just decided to simplify. If you can get longer studs to fit into the lug mount you can bolt the lug mount to the drum first, then bolt the muffle onto the protruding stud

I have 2 bass drums so I have 2 AL singles, but there was some other reason I decided against E-kits (but I can't remember right now). The only triggers I'd really stay away from are the Red Shots or any self-stick triggers.

Here they are in action: http://youtube.com/watch?v=UmKeIut87Dg[/url][/i]

Empyrean Drums wrote:

dahlgrendrummer wrote:

Hey Empyrean,


Thats a really cool idea! I am thinking of trying that with slight modifications to alleviate the drilling by using a wider piece of metal and slotting it off one of the lugs. It would be nice to able to hear my acoustic kick a little better.

Axis does make the e-kit trigger system. It's a nice system, but you have to run two of them on a single kick drum which is more wires and shit to worry about if your a single kick player. Having the trigger on the kick is cheaper for a single bass drum double basser!!

I was going to bolt the muffle under the lugs at first, but I just decided to simplify. If you can get longer studs to fit into the lug mount you can bolt the lug mount to the drum first, then bolt the muffle onto the protruding stud

I have 2 bass drums so I have 2 AL singles, but there was some other reason I decided against E-kits (but I can't remember right now). The only triggers I'd really stay away from are the Red Shots or any self-stick triggers.

Here they are in action: http://youtube.com/watch?v=UmKeIut87Dg[/url][/i]

Sounds like early 90s Kreator I like it

Get a pearll mesh head, problem solved.








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"I'm not afraid of the man who practices 10,000 kicks...I'm afraid of the man who practices one kick 10,000 times.

Maybe install an internal muffler inside the bass drum, pressing against where the trigger touches? I'm thinking about doing this if I run into the same problem with my Emads & Roland kick triggers. I haven't actually done this, of course. Remains to be seen if this should, in fact, prove to be a practical solution the the misfiring/ double-triggering dilemma.

When i first got my triggers i had the emad and it seemed to work fine but what module are you using
it could just be that the trigger isnt tight enough on the drum or it could all be in your settings.